Palace of Fine Price

I don't feel I've treated my guests to one of their key gastronomic experiences of a lifetime, but the visiting Brit is happier with his steak and spuds than with the more exotic Ethiopian meal we'd shared the night before. We have a nice time, and the total for our four meals, including several beers, is less than the tab for a single meal at two steakhouses I visited recently, at which I had fabulous steak but disappointing — and quite expensive! — starters and desserts. And Marina couldn't be nicer or more welcoming.

As she is when I return for lunch: fried chicken ($10) for me, and a ribeye steak sandwich ($8.75) for my friend. The thin cut of meat works better between the sliced garlic roll than it does on its own, and the fried chicken - a breast, leg, wing, and thigh, small pieces from a young bird - is another surprise hit: no heavy batter, just crisp golden skin over moist flesh. They have a nice touch with the deep fryer.

I'm happy I finally made it to the Palace, because it seems Marina and Moe have been talking about retiring for the last three years. They want to spend more time with the grandkids whose pictures are proudly displayed on the counter near a sign that reads "Too Young to Retire, Too Old to Get a Paper Route." So you should drop in now to get a taste of what they dish up.

A framed coupon gives a hint of what the Palace used to charge: For a Halloween promotion in 1969, you could get two New York steak dinners for $2.69. And that isn't "each"!