Shawarma is the great Middle Eastern fast food. Like the burrito, the piroshki, the calzone, or the hot dog, it's a self-contained meal in itself, a portable, one-handed, highly delectable solution to empty stomach and questing tastebud alike. Truly Mediterranean, a trim and tidy takeout joint next door to the Roxie, prepares an outstanding example of the genre. Generous slices of roasted lamb are cut from a traditionally enormous vertical kabob and placed upon lavash bread with strips of marinated beef. Broiled tomato, pungently spiced onion, a dollop of tahini, and as much pepper sauce as you desire are tossed in, then the works are wrapped together and placed on the grill to get everything nice and hot and fragrant. The result is chewy, crunchy, creamy, spicy, and supple all at once. There are five stools and a few sidewalk tables if you'd like to eat on the premises, but there's nothing like strolling through the Mission on a balmy afternoon, meal in hand.